Conquering the Clouds: Our Family Backpacking Adventure on Jasper's Skyline Trail

The Canadian Rockies. Just the name conjures images of towering peaks, turquoise lakes, and endless wilderness. For our family of four – myself, my wife Alli, our 15-year-old son, and our "adventurous" 12-year-old daughter on her second backpacking trip – the Jasper Skyline Trail has always held a certain allure. We finally turned that dream into a reality, and while it wasn't always easy, it was undeniably unforgettable.

Our adventure began the night before our trek at the newly renovated Whistler Campground. Nestled amongst the trees, the campground provided a comfortable launching pad. True to mountain weather, a steady rain fell throughout the night, testing the waterproofing of our tents. Thankfully, we awoke to a glorious sight: clear blue skies, promising a beautiful start to our journey.

Day 1: Through the Trees to Little Shovel Campground (Approx. 8.6 km) - A Permit Panic!

Our first day on the Skyline Trail started with a minor, self-inflicted crisis. In my pre-trip excitement, I had completely forgotten to print our backcountry permit! Of course, it wasn't long before we were spotted by the watchful eye of the park rangers. Thankfully, they were understanding and directed us to the Maligne Lake buildings, a short detour from the initial trailhead. A quick Wi-Fi connection and a digital copy on my phone later, we were legal and back on track – a valuable lesson learned and definitely not to be repeated! The initial part of the hike itself was, admittedly, the least visually spectacular. The trail wound its way through dense forest, the towering trees offering shade but obscuring any grand vistas. While the hike itself wasn't overly strenuous, the real challenge arrived with us at Little Shovel Campground. This cozy site, nestled beside a creek, was beautiful in its own right, but it came with an unwelcome entourage: mosquitos. Swarms of them descended upon us the moment we stopped moving. Dinner preparation became a frantic dance of swatting and applying bug spray. In a slightly comical attempt to find some respite, we even donned our rain gear, the waterproof fabric offering a temporary shield against the relentless insects. Despite the buzzing annoyance, we managed to set up camp and enjoy a well-deserved meal, hoping for fewer pests the next day.

Day 2: Scenic Trails to Curator Campground (Approx. 12.2 km) - Lakeside Beauty and Mountain Views

The hike to Curator Campground offered a welcome change in scenery. Leaving Little Shovel, the trail began to climb more consistently, and the trees gradually thinned, revealing more of the surrounding mountain landscape. We eventually made our way to the turn-off for the stunning Curator Lake. The short detour was well worth the effort, as the vibrant turquoise waters nestled beneath the towering peaks were a sight to behold. After enjoying the tranquil beauty of the lake, we continued our hike towards Curator Campground. The trail offered increasingly impressive views as we gained elevation, providing a taste of the alpine scenery to come. Arriving at Curator, we were thrilled to find the perfect tent spots right beside a charming little river that flowed into a tranquil pond. The soothing sound of the water was a welcome change from the buzzing of the previous night.

Day 3: Skyline Majesty to Signal Campground (Approx. 21.6 km with Tekarra Lunch Stop)

This was the day the Skyline Trail truly lived up to its name, a longer trek as we aimed for Signal Campground. After packing up at Curator Campground, the trail continued its amazing ascent. Curator Lake remained visible below for a while, offering stunning perspectives as we climbed higher towards the mountain's peak. It was along this stretch, as we gained significant elevation and reached the ridge line, that the truly panoramic views began to unfold. The Jasper townsite lay far below, framed by a seemingly endless expanse of mountains. As we traversed along the "skyline," the views became even more dramatic. Jagged peaks pierced the horizon in every direction, their snow-capped summits glistening in the sunlight. We were also fortunate enough to encounter numerous mountain goats and other fascinating mountain animals along this breathtaking section. Mid-day, we reached Tekarra Campground, a lovely spot where we took a well-deserved break for lunch, refuelling before the final push. The last leg of the hike continued along the stunning skyline, eventually leading us to Signal Campground, perched with its own incredible views. Reaching our final destination felt like a triumphant end to a long but incredibly rewarding day.

Backpacking the Jasper Skyline Trail with my family – Alli, our son, and our daughter – was an experience we will cherish forever. It tested our resilience (those mosquitos!), rewarded us with breathtaking scenery, and strengthened our bond as a family. Seeing the wonder in our kids' eyes as they witnessed the grandeur of the Rockies made every step worthwhile. If you're looking for a challenging yet incredibly rewarding backpacking adventure in Jasper National Park, the Skyline Trail is an absolute must-do. Just be sure to double-check you have that permit printed!